W650 Valve Check and Adjustment Tips
This is by no means an attempt to describe all that you need to have and do in order to check and adjust the valve clearance on a W650. These are just some additional tips on the whole procedure and many of these are just seconding advice that I got from Chris’ procedure or from other listers.
Start with Calamari Chris’ directions: http://www.chrisandlisachan.com/w650/valveadj.htm
Locate ahead of time:
If you want to finish the job fairly quickly, find a local source for buying or trading shims, in case you need to replace any. These take more than a week to get if ordered from Ron Ayers.
Purchase ahead of time:
A torque wrench that covers the needed range. Just do it. Got mine at Sears. For engine work you’ll need one with a smaller range than what you need for an axle or a swingarm.
A magnetic pickup tool for retrieving and replacing the shims is an absolute necessity! Sears has them.
The Three Bond 1211 silicone sealer for the half moons on the valve cover gasket. Kawasaki has superseded the previous Kawabond part #, with this product, simply part # 1211, I think. It’s expensive. Ron Ayers has it: http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?searchstring=1211.
A micrometer or caliper for measuring the shims. The identifying markings that were on the shims originally will be worn off, so you need a way of measuring them. I used http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Di...temnumber=47256, a cheap digital caliper from Harbor Freight that displays both inches and metric. Not a super quality tool, but sufficient. Remember to turn it off when you’re done!
Be careful when removing the two plugs on the left side of the engine casing. Maybe use a big coin, clamped in vise-grips and shielded with a layer of cloth to remove the plugs without marking them. Find something that fits snugly into the slot (but cover it with cloth), so you’re not putting a lot of pressure on a small area of the aluminum plug.
Be careful when removing the bevel gear cover – the two nylon washers in back will try to fall out and run away when you pull out the Allen bolts. And after the two bolts are out, lift the cover up in order to remove it from the pin it sits on.
Take the time to remove the coil above the engine – this will give you much more room to work.
Be careful when removing the valve cover - you really want the rubber gasket to stay stuck to the valve cover. You may have to pry the gasket half moons up with your fingernails as you lift the valve cover off – don’t just pull the valve cover up while leaving the bottom of the half moons still glued to the engine – this will try to pull the gasket from the head cover.
As per Chris’ suggestion: remove, measure and record all of the shim thicknesses. Also record all gap measurements. This will greatly simplify future adjustments.
Be very careful to return the rockers to their original location after you have pushed one or two of them aside to remove or replace a shim. Be especially careful of the exhaust rockers after you’ve shifted one of them and shifted an inlet rocker in order to access an inlet shim. When you let go of it, the inlet rocker will return of its own accord but the exhaust rocker may not. You’ll understand when you get a look inside. I also had one rocker that would hang up on the edge of its shim when it tried to slide back into position – I had to help it a bit.
I removed the spark plug wells as per Chris’s instructions. They are truly a bear to remove without marking anything up. Then I saw a note on the list saying no need to remove them at all, and as far as I can see, that’s true – you shouldn’t need to remove them. Next time I’ll try just leaving them alone. If you do remove them: be patient, twist them so you have something to grab on to, keep applying upward pressure and don’t use any metal tools – try a piece of wood (gently) if you can’t get them with your hands.
I decided to replace my sparkplugs, since I was in there anyway. I’ll keep the old ones as spares.
Ray Neilsen suggests not rotating the crank with any shims removed (I’m not sure why), so one-at-a-time I removed, measured and replaced all of the shims on one side of the engine, rotated the crank and did the other side.
(NOTE: Ray later wrote;
I'd worry about the valve rocker rubbing against the valve collar and keeper while opening the valve during that rotation and possibly scuffing or scraping the rocker arm. I'm not sure it will happen, but I've had it happen with a Yamaha where I rotated the engine without a shim atop the bucket -- itscuffed the camshaft and the bucket.
From the Moderators).
As Chris suggests, use a finger to force a bend into the feeler gauge before the gauge gets to the gap it’s measuring. If it approaches the gap at an angle, you may think that it won’t fit in when in fact it will. And oil the feeler gauge before inserting it.
Again, as Chris cautions, beware of multiple feeler gauges sticking together and really confusing you for a minute or two.
I spent a bit of time at my workbench, gently removing the old adhesive from the gasket half moons and cleaning the oil off so that the 1211 adhesive would adhere to it. Also clean and degrease the half moon mating surface on the engine.